Bare legs, new talent and vintage luxury on the Milan catwalks

For the first time since March last year, Milan hosted Fashion Week. Between September 21 and 27, 43 physical shows were on the program, plus 41 events and 98 presentations, mainly for the public. Security measures were sometimes strict, with a greatly reduced number of seats. For quite a few labels, this resulted in the collective exclusion of journalists from the Benelux. Among them Versace, Etro, Ferragamo, Marni, Cavalli and Fendi.

Asian spectators were few and far between, but American guests were given additional treats. At Dolce & Gabbana, for example, Vogue bosses Anna Wintour and Edward Enninful had twice as much front row seating as the other guests. A treatment of the throne, crown and scepter was on our minds. However, due to the smaller number of spectators, fashion week often suffered from a lack of atmosphere.

The Teatro Armani, where the designer celebrated the fortieth anniversary of his Emporio Armani brand, is already quite cold in normal times, but with half-full stands the party atmosphere was nowhere to be found. As always, Armani used his own staff to clap loudly during key moments. It hadn’t changed at all.

Image: Emporio Armani

The boss launched a charming offensive

At Boss, the atmosphere was not a problem. For the presentation of its second collaboration with Russell Athletic, the German brand rented the Kennedy sports ground on the outskirts of the city and set up a typical baseball game, complete with marching band, cheerleaders, popcorn. , hot dogs, an enthusiastic announcer and mascots. The models donned Boss and Russell’s easy American sportswear, with supermodel Gigi Hadid in the lead. The launch of the view now buy now collection was very reminiscent of recent Tommy Hilfiger shows. This is not surprising, since the former CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Worldwide and PVH Europe, Daniel Grieder, has been leading Hugo Boss since June. High fashion history was never written on a baseball diamond, and it wasn’t intended, but the Boss event was the most extravagant moment of the week.

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Image: Boss x Russell Athletic (in the bottom photo Daniel Grieder is on the left)

Prada chose short and sexy …

Prada opted for an unnecessarily complicated spectacle. Or rather, two shows, one at Fondazione Prada in Milan and one in Shanghai – simultaneously. In Milan, live images of Shanghai were projected on screens, and vice versa. The models wore identical outfits at the same time (two collections had been made, a significant investment) and the parade was closed by twin sisters, on different continents and time zones, again wearing the same outfits.

The collection was remarkably sexy by Prada standards, or perhaps more alluring. Very short skirts, often worn over even shorter shorts, corsets and whales were part of the selection, as well as grunge-style leather jackets with nothing underneath. There were also references to couture, with elegant dresses in double-sided satin, always paired with a lipstick handbag from the 90s.

Image: Versace SS22

… as well as many other brands

Versace brought in Dua Lipa, Naomi Campbell and a group of half-naked male models, while Lipa’s “Physical” sounded over the speakers. Dolce & Gabbana sprinkled sequins on oversized jeans and, again, micro skirts. Missoni, where Angela Missoni passed the torch to her former studio director Alberto Caliri, seemed to have lost it. The girls were too young, too skinny, and often just a little too lightly dressed.

Even though the catwalks are more colorful than before – fashion brands have learned this lesson – there was little room for plus-size models. Italian fashion continues to have a preference for very young girls. While at New York Fashion Week there was some progress in inclusion, Milan’s conversion to the 21st century has yet to begin.

Image: Cavalli SS22

Quira was the first of the week

“I’ve been in the business for so long, I’ve always worked for other art directors, and now I felt it was time to finally express my own vision,” Veronica Leoni told FashionUnited at the launch from his brand Quira, named after his grandmother. Leoni has an impressive track record. She was responsible for knits at Jil Sander, when Sander was last at this brand. She then spent four years designing Celine’s pre-collections, under the reign of Phoebe Philo.

For several seasons, she has been designing the 2 Moncler 1952 line, which is part of the Moncler Genius project. Regarding this, she continued, “What I do for Moncler is completely different. There I work to order and that’s great. But Quira is just mine.” The collection, presented with an exhibition of photographs by French photographer Camille Vivier, was particularly strong and seems perfectly suited to fans of Philo, Sander or even the Parisian Lemaire.

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Image: Quira SS22, Credits: Camille Vivier / property of Quira

Moncler and Gucci have gone vintage

Moncler launched the new Moncler Genius bundle, the label’s collection of eleven mini-collections, with activations in eleven cities. In Milan, a separate event was organized for a collaboration with luxury streetwear brand Palm Angels. A vintage store, The Dunes, has been set up under a huge mountain of red sand in the halls of the Spazio Maiocchi. A selection of vintage American clothing was offered for sale, and Palm Angels items hung among them (they were not for sale).

Gucci launched the same day a new online store, Gucci Vault, where it offers vintage Gucci in addition to collections of small independent brands. In other words, luxury brands are looking for solutions to play a role in the second-hand sector, which is not only growing rapidly but also popular, especially with Gen Z.

Cormio brought a piece from Antwerp to Milan

Designer Jezabelle Cormio grew up in Rome, studied at the Academy of Antwerp and, for a few seasons, has her own brand of sustainable knits in Milan. Its first presentation, in a former knitwear store, had an underground vibe one would expect earlier at Paris Fashion Week. Spectators were allowed into the shop in groups of five, where three models and three older artisans were knitting behind the counter, with disco lights and blazing techno.

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Image: Cormio SS22 Collection, brand property

And then there was an important guest role for Gabrielle Karefa Johnson

Gabrielle Karefa Johnson was the first black stylist to shoot for American Vogue. It was then followed by no less than five times in a row, everyone was happy. Some of them can even be called historical, like the portrayal of Vice President Kamala Harris, made under difficult circumstances, or of the poet Amanda Gorman.

Max Mara Weekend asked Karefa Johnson to design a capsule collection, the stylist taking inspiration from ’70s photos of her mother and aunts. A major highlight, the outfits, with print collages and references to Bridget Riley’s op art among others, are suitable for all kinds of women, including ladies like Karefa Johnson herself who are a bit more. round.

Image: Gabriella Karefa Johnson’s family affair for the Max Mara SS22 weekend

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.BE. Translation and editing by: Rachel Douglass.

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